Your Essential Travel Guide to Visiting Edinburgh Scotland
Edinburgh is one of the UK’s top destinations, and it is easy to see why. We hit the ground running in the Scottish capital and made the most of our time in the city. Here is a quick rundown on some of our favorite experiences to help you when you visit Edinburgh Scotland.
Edinburgh Scotland Travel Guide
We experienced both of the main transportation hubs in and out of Edinburgh. The Edinburgh airport is about a 25-minute car ride from downtown. You can get flights from the US directly to Edinburgh, but what we found was it was more expensive than connecting through London’s Heathrow. At the airport itself, we found it pretty crowded, and some limits on seating while you’re waiting on your flight.
Our arrival to Edinburgh was by train, after spending a few days in London. We loved the opportunity to take the LNER train service from King’s Cross station in central London to Edinburgh’s Waverly station. The roughly four and a half hour trip allows you to relax and watch the beautiful scenery of England and Scotland whisk past your window. It is reasonably priced and includes wifi to help pass the time during your journey. If you can, we recommend you splurge and consider upgrading to first class accommodations.
Edinburgh hotel options
Where you stay in town is important in Edinburgh. If nightlife and food are important to you, then you might look towards options in New Town which tends to have more restaurants, shopping, and nightlife. By the way, New Town is just a section of Edinburgh which was created between 1767 and 1890 when the town was expanded.
If history and being close to the Royal Mile are important to you, then consider a spot in Old Town. In our case, we wanted to be close to the Royal Mile, and chose to stay at the Apex Grassmarket Hotel.
The Apex Grassmarket was the perfect location for us. We had a room that overlooked the Grassmarket area, and a stunning view of Edinburgh Castle. The hotel package came with breakfast included each morning, and proved to be very convenient. Also worth noting, this hotel has rooms with multiple beds, so we could all stay in one room. This is not always a standard option in hotels in the UK we’ve discovered.
If hanging out in New Town is more your thing, then consider the Balmoral Hotel. It is right on Princes Street, and is acclaimed as a top place to stay that we heard a lot about during our stay. The clocktower is iconic, and the hotel is full of history. One note for Harry Potter fans, this is the hotel that J.K. Rowling wrote the ending to the Harry Potter book series.
10 best Edinburgh attractions
There is so much that you can do in and around Edinburgh. From history to outdoors and nature, you can find plenty to do to fill up an itinerary. We’re not hikers, so you’ll not see things like Arthur’s Seat on our top 10 list. But if hiking is your thing, make sure you add that in and enjoy that view. Here are some highlights of our favorite things to do in Edinburgh, in no particular order.
Mary King’s Close is an immersive experience, showing you the living conditions in Edinburgh over the past 400 years. You learn about the cramped conditions, the horrible sanitation and the poverty one could experience. You’ll also learn about life in Edinburgh and the impact of the plague back in the day. As a potential bonus, Edinburgh is considered one of the most haunted cities in the world, and Mary King’s Close delivers on that too. This experience is located right on the Royal Mile, and should take about an hour to experience.
We spent most of our time on the Royal Mile during our visit. And with good reason too, as there is so much to see and do up and down this main thoroughfare. Plenty of shopping opportunities, a wide variety of places to eat and drink, and of course a ton of history and attractions to check out. We did a tour that told the history of the mile, including some of the iconic buildings and other landmarks between Edinburgh Castle and the Palace at Holyroodhouse. A tour isn’t necessary though enjoyable, but you can explore on your own during your stay.
We love to explore locations with ties to the royal family, and Edinburgh has a couple places like that which you will want to add to your list. One is the Palace at Holyroodhouse, the King’s official Scottish residence. Located at one end of the Royal Mile near the Scottish parliament, Holyrood is spectacular both inside and out. On the inside, you’ll see the royal apartments, throne room and learn of the building’s extensive history. Touring the outside at Holyrood allows you a chance to see the extensive palace gardens, as well as the ruins from the 12th century Holyrood Abbey
Another highly rated royal spot to work into your itinerary is a stop at the Royal Yacht Britannia. The historic vessel is docked in nearby Leith, which was a short cab ride over from downtown. You can learn more about our time onboard Queen Elizabeth’s favorite ship along with plenty of photos here.
Edinburgh Castle is everywhere in Edinburgh. Obviously, it stays in one spot but just about anywhere in town you’ll see the massive castle perched atop an ancient volcano. The castle is steeped in history, and is a top attraction in Edinburgh for good reason. You’ll spend several hours touring the grounds, soaking in the views of the surrounding area, and getting a peek at the history on display. The royal jewels of Scotland are on display. There will be a line to wait, but it will go fast. The daily one o’clock gun ceremony is highly anticipated each day. As you might expect, they shoot off a large artillery gun each day at, you guessed it, 1pm. Edinburgh Castle is also the home to the Scottish National War Memorial and the National War Museum, among other things to see.
If the view from Edinburgh Castle wasn’t enough for you, then you might consider a trip to the Johnnie Walker Experience, located on Prince’s Street. Explore the rich history of the world’s most popular scotch, Johnnie Walker. This is an interactive experience, with exceptional storytelling using actors, special effects and well done exhibits. And at the end of the tour through the history of the Johnnie Walker brand, you get to enjoy a tasting. Each person on the tour fills out a taste profile, and they match up your likes and dislikes with the perfect blend of Johnnie Walker. It’s pretty cool, even if you’re not a fan of scotch. Separate from the tour, consider making a reservation at the 1820 Bar, a rooftop bar that may have the best view in all of Edinburgh.
There is a strong connection between the city of Edinburgh and the Harry Potter books and movies. There are a number of sites that you can visit which J.K. Rowling drew inspiration from while writing the books. A stroll along Victoria Street is a good place to start for Potter fans. There are two very good Harry Potter shops there, filled with wands and anything you can imagine Harry Potter. Victoria Street itself is also worth noting, reportedly being the inspiration for Diagon Alley from the book and movies. Planning a Harry Potter tour, check out our recommended stops.
Also a part of a Harry Potter tour suggestion is Greyfriars Kirkyard. Kirkyard translates to cemetery. Even if you’re not a fan of the movies, this is a legendary cemetery with plenty of stories to tell. Harry Potter character names came from grave markers from Greyfriars Kirkyard, including Tom Riddle and William McGonagall. Beyond that, you’ll find all sorts of history on display including graves that appear to be caged. This is reaction to the number of grave robbers who frequented the cemetery 200+ years ago.
A more heartwarming story at the cemetery and nearby pub is the tale of Greyfriars Bobby. Bobby was a Skye Terrier, and a beloved pet to policeman John Gray. After his passing, Bobby could be found for the next 14 years standing guard at his grave. If this story sounds familiar, it is probably because it was made into a movie in 1961. You can see the memorial to the loyal pup, along with a statue of Bobby in Greyfriars Kirkyard. Just don’t touch the dog’s nose for good luck! Plenty of people do it, which only frustrates the locals who are slowly witnessing the damage done to the dog’s statue. Once you’ve paid your respects, check out the Greyfriars Bobby pub across the street to hoist a couple up in Bobby’s honor.
Speaking of movies, there have been many movies and tv shows produced with scenes shot in Edinburgh. One of our favorites is the tv show Outlander, which has several locations in and around Edinburgh where they’ve shot scenes. We hit a few of the locations, but would love a chance to go back and see more including Midhope Castle, which was known as Lallybroch in the series, and Blackness Castle, featured as Fort William. There are several tours available that focus on just the Outlander series, if that interests you.
Finally, a trip to the UK wouldn’t be complete without a stop at a cathedral, and Edinburgh features a beautiful one located on the Royal Mile and is free to tour. St. Giles Cathedral has 900 years of history for you to take in, with stunning stained glass and the fanned ceiling architecture.
Edinburgh food and drink options
The food scene is quite strong in Edinburgh. You can find just about anything to satisfy your palate, from simple fast food, outstanding pub food to Michelin rated fine dining.
There are several reasons why we loved staying in the Grassmarket area. The pub scene practically right outside your door there was very good, and featured several spots full of history and good food.
One of the options nearby was The Last Drop. As the story goes, the name comes because this is the pub that condemned criminals would get their final meal before being executed in the market area. The pub has 150+ years of history, and was around when the final hanging took place in 1864. The BeeHive Inn is another Grassmarket pub for consideration. Offering traditional pub food and drink, it is a nice spot to catch up on your favorite sports team, with lots of TVs showing the latest action.
Our two favorites, which we visited multiple times during our stay were the Black Bull and Fiddlers Arms. The Black Bull has a great atmosphere, and a well-rounded food and drink menu. You can grab a burger there, or dive into traditional Scottish dishes like haggis. We indulged in desserts during our stay, enjoying them in a relaxed atmosphere and conversing with fellow travelers. Fiddlers Arms also had a very chill atmosphere. Situated on the corner, you could sit inside or out and enjoy the food and drink.
Located on the south end of the Royal Mile, you can find the perfect pub that combines traditional Scottish food and deep history. The World’s End was one of our first stops when we hit town. The name of the pub is tied to its exterior walls, which formed the Flodden Wall, which was erected to protect Edinburgh in the 16th century. The pub also has more recent history, especially if you’re a fan of the TV show Outlander. They feature traditional Scottish fare along with pub favorites. It is where we tried haggis, which was available as an appetizer.
If you’re a fan of the Netflix show Somebody Feed Phil, then perhaps you’ve heard of Mary’s Milk Bar. Located just a few doors down from our hotel, Mary’s provided us a creamy cool snack. The warmer the day, the longer the line. Be prepared to stand in line for some of the best ice cream in Scotland.
The city of Edinburgh has a deep literary connection to Frankenstein. If you are a fan, then you’ll want to add a stop at The World Famous Frankenstein and Bier Keller (beer cellar). The decor alone is worth a stop, with the pizza and beer selection being an added bonus.
Our favorite meal in Edinburgh without a doubt is the Sheep Heid Inn . This is the oldest pub in Scotland and dates back 700+ years. It is full of history including a visit from the late Queen Elizabeth II who strolled over to the pub one afternoon from her nearby residence at Holyrood Palace. We highly recommend a visit for the food, and then be sure to reserve a lane in the back area to play some skittle. Skittle is Scottish bowling, and the lanes at Sheep Heid Inn have been there since around 1880. You can read our full review and see a bunch of pictures here.
As you can see from this preview, we’re big fans of Edinburgh and will eventually work our way back to the Scottish capital to visit. This guide offers plenty of options to consider—but there’s still so much more to explore.
